Discover the timeless appeal of Oxford shoes, from their origins as practical men's footwear in the 1800s to their evolution into a versatile staple for women’s wardrobes. Explore classic styles like the Oxford or the Derby, and learn about unique variations like spectator shoes. With roots in history and a blend of style and functionality, these shoes remain iconic in fashion.
Oxfords for men
The origin of Oxford shoes
Oxford shoes, also known as Balmoral shoes, originated in the early 1800s as practical footwear for men, commonly used for daily wear. The style was often seen on students at Oxford University, hence the name. Although the precise date of their creation is uncertain, their history spans over two centuries.
Gaining popularity outside Oxford
During the 1800s the shoe slowly started gaining popularity outside of the university, and the shoe’s refined design made it an ideal choice for formal occasions, seamlessly complementing the era’s focus on propriety and decorum. The Industrial Revolution in the late 1800s contributed to the rise in popularity of Oxford shoes, as advancements in manufacturing made high-quality footwear more affordable and accessible to the growing middle class and from there it quickly became a stable in mens wardrobe.
William is our classic 1910's style men's Oxford boot with a closed lacing system, and very typical for the period.
Oxford shoes in Hollywood
In the 1930s and 1940s Hollywood helped gain the Oxford shoe even more popularity, when the leading male roles wore them, in their stylish old Hollywood look. This also helped the Oxford shoes become more versatile and a classic every day shoe for men.
Oxfords for women
By the late 19th century, elements of men's fashion began to transition into women's wardrobes. Items like shirts, ties, and vests became staples in women's clothing due to their functionality and practicality. This shift was further accelerated during World War I, when many women entered traditionally male-dominated workplaces. Additionally, the rise of sportswear in early 20th-century fashion emphasized the need for practical attire, solidifying these garments as essential for women. Amongst this, Oxford shoes made their way into women’s wardrobes as a functional and versatile everyday shoe. Our Florence shoe reflects one of the earliest Oxford styles.
Our Florence 1910s women's Oxford shoes. Notice the low, practical heel.
Oxfords with heels
By the 1920s, the design evolved with the addition of higher heels, including the fashionable curved French heel of the era. This marked the transition of the Oxford shoe from a utilitarian men’s staple to a fashionable statement. The Oxford shoe in women's wardrobe was a practical, yet still stylish choice of footwear for both working women and women of higher society, and was truly established as a classic shoe choice for women during this decade.
Oxfords in WWII
During the 1930s and 1940s, the shoe’s popularity continued, often featuring a lower block heel that blended practicality with femininity and style. Typically crafted in brown or black leather, Oxford shoes offered versatility, pairing well with various outfits—an essential feature in a time of rationing when leather was scarce, and wardrobes were limited. Over time, decorative elements like cut-outs, intricate stitching, and stamped leather patterns were introduced, reflecting the "make do and mend" mindset and adding a touch of fashion to their practicality.
Juliette is one of the classic 1930s inspired styles you'll find under the category "Oxford and Derby shoes" on my website.
What’s the difference between Oxford and Derby shoes?
The Oxford shoes has a more semi- formal little brother: The Derby shoe. The primary difference between Oxford shoes and Derby shoes lies in the lacing system, which significantly impacts their appearance, fit, and level of formality.
What is an Oxford shoe?
The hallmark of an Oxford shoe is its closed lacing system, where the eyelet tabs (or quarters) are stitched under the vamp (the front part of the shoe). This creates a sleek, clean appearance and a snug fit when the laces are tightened. Oxford shoes are often seen as formal or semi-formal shoe.
The closed lacing system can often be recognised because it's forming a distinctive “V” shape at the front. An example of this is our women's high heeled Oxfords Mildred shoes.
Mildred is a classic 1930s style Oxford shoe, with a fashionable heel and cut outs. Notice the closed lacing system.
What is a Derby shoe?
A closely related style is the Derby shoe, which differs primarily in its lacing system. In contrast to the Oxfords closed lacing system, Derby shoes have an open lacing system, with two leather flaps overlapping the shoe's midsection, offering greater adjustability around the instep. This design is exemplified in our Eleanor shoes.
The Derby shoes is also often seen as a semi-formal to casual shoe.
Eleanor is a classic 1940s style Derby shoe, with a practical flat heel. Notice the open lacing system with the two leather flaps overlapping.
Spectators: The Oxfords Sporty Cousin
A sports-oriented variation of the Oxford is the spectator shoe. These shoes are characterized by contrasting colors on the heels and saddle, commonly in combinations like brown and white or black and white, with other colors like blue or bordeaux also gaining popularity. Originally designed as a sports shoe in the late 1800s, spectator shoes became a staple for those watching games from the stands—hence their name. Like Oxfords, spectator shoes began as menswear, becoming very popular in the 1920s, but transitioned into women’s fashion during the 1930s and 1940s. Our spectator shoe, Grace, is a classic example of a 1940's two toned women's spectator shoe:
Our two-toned spectator shoe for women, Grace, in classic brown and white colors.
If you're more curious on the history of the most iconic shoes out there, you will perhaps like to read about Mary Janes - The signature vintage shoe. If you're looking for ways to keep your old Oxford shoes looking brand new, then you can read our guide on How to care for your memery shoes.
Source:
- Vintage shoes - Caroline Cox
- Shoes - An Illustrated Story by Rebecca Shawcross