The fashion plate of the 1940s was heavily influenced by WW2 with rationing and a longing for an escape into the glamorous. Let's take a look at the historic decade.

 

An Era of Functional Elegance and Resilient Style

Fashion in the 1940s was deeply influenced by World War II (1939-1945), when resources and materials were scarce, and many countries introduced textile rationing. This forced the clothing industry and fashion houses to adapt, resulting in a more functional and austere style. At the same time, there was a strong resistance to the hardships of war, expressed through a desire for elegance when circumstances allowed.

Practical 1940s inspired look with pants, and my Rosemary cardigan with fair isle print. The boots are my Robbie boots, inspired by an original military boot from the 1940s.

 

Practicality Meets Creativity as Women Redefine Style with 'Make Do and Mend'

During the war, fashion focused on practical and functional clothing. Women often had to take on men’s roles in the workforce, which led to trousers becoming more widely accepted as everyday wear. Jumpsuits and overalls became popular workwear for women, especially for those working in factories or agriculture. Clothing was often made from durable materials like wool, cotton, and rayon, as luxurious fabrics like silk were used for war production (e.g., parachutes).

Clothing rationing forced women to be creative with their wardrobes. The "Make Do and Mend" trend emerged, where old clothes were adapted or new garments were sewn from recycled materials. Parachutes left by the soldiers on fields could be used as fabric for a wedding dress or underwear. Skirts became shorter to save fabric, often reaching the knee or just below. Long coats, simple blouses, and A-line skirts became the standard. People became very creative with hats, bags, and other accessories, using scraps of ribbon, fabric, buttons, and even telephone cords to give a personal touch.

Military uniforms had a major influence on fashion, especially with sharp shoulders and tailored silhouettes. Shoulder pads were popular, giving a distinctive silhouette with broad shoulders and a narrow waist. 

Although functionality was the main focus, there was still an emphasis on maintaining an elegant look. Women used hair and make up as an expression of optimism and resilience. Evening gowns and glamorous clothing were still worn for special occasions, and decorated with small details like pearls or brooches to add elegance.

 

New Look: A Post-War Fashion Revolution

Fashion changed significantly after the war ended in 1945. The most iconic change came with Christian Dior’s "New Look" in 1947. This style was a reaction against the austere wartime fashions and featured lavish, voluminous skirts that reached mid-calf, narrow waists, and soft, rounded shoulders. At a time when large parts of Europe were still in the process of rebuilding cities and economies after the devastation of the war, it seemed provocative to use so much fabric on extravagant skirts and luxurious designs. On the other hand, for many, the "New Look" symbolized a longing for normality, beauty, and luxury after years of hardship and crisis.

A New Look inspired walking suit. Note the fitted waist, wider hips and feminine details.

Minimalist and Military-Inspired: How WWII Shaped Men’s Fashion in the 1940s

Men’s fashion in the 1940s was similarly influenced by the war. Many men were in the military and wore uniforms daily. For civilian men, clothing rationing was also introduced, which meant that clothes were designed with minimal fabric use. Suits became simpler and more streamlined, with fewer details such as cuffs and pocket flaps to save fabric. Trousers were high-waisted and often straight or slightly narrow in cut. Hats, like the fedora, remained an important part of men’s fashion, and more casual items like sweaters and sports jackets also became common in men's wardrobes. 

 

Footwear Adapted with Practicality and Post-War Glamour

Like clothing, 1940s shoes were rationed, meaning they had to be practical and durable. Leather was in short supply, so shoemakers had to find alternative materials like cork or wood for soles, and spotted hide was used as a substitute for leather. The practical Oxford shoe remained a favorite for both men and women, and pumps became popular for women. After the war, more glamorous shoes with high-heeled designs returned, especially in evening sandals decorated with cut-outs and peep-toe. 

Emily is my classic 1940s inspired Oxfords with a sturdy heel. Note the cut outs and rounded toe.

 

Sources: 

• Shoes - An Illustrated Story by Rebecca Shawcross
• Tidens Mode by Anne-Grete Steckhahn
• Vintage Fashion - Collecting and wearing designer classics by Emma Baxter-Wright, Karen Clarkson, Sarah Kennedy, and Kate Mulvey
• Vintage shoes - Caroline Cox