Few shoe styles have endured as timelessly as Mary Jane shoes. Recognized by their signature strap across the instep, rounded toe, and low heel or flat sole, Mary Janes have evolved from their origins in children’s footwear to a versatile fashion staple for all ages. The story of Mary Jane shoes is one of tradition, innovation, and cultural significance, spanning over a century.
One of our most classic Mary Janes shoes, is the Yvonne shoes. Inspired by the classic 1920s Mary Jane with a french heel and in bold colors.
Mary Jane shoes are a classic style of footwear characterized by their closed, low-cut design and a strap across the instep. They are traditionally associated with a youthful, feminine aesthetic and have been worn by both children and adults. Here are the key features of Mary Jane shoes:
Defining Features of Mary Janes:
- Strap Across the Instep: A single strap (or sometimes multiple straps) is secured with a buckle or button. The strap can also be shaped like a T, making it a classic T-strap shoe.
- Closed Toe and Heel: The shoes typically have a rounded, closed toe and a closed back.
- Flat or Low Heel: Originally Mary Janes had a flat sole or a low heel, though in the 1920s and 1930s higher heels became popular.
Why are they called Mary Jane shoes?
The history of Mary Jane shoes dates back to the early 20th century, though similar styles can be traced to earlier eras. The name “Mary Jane” originated from the Buster Brown comic strip, created by Richard Felton Outcault in 1902. This comic featured a young boy named Buster Brown and his companion Mary Jane, both of whom wore shoes with a distinctive strap. Brown Shoe Company capitalized on the comic's popularity, using the characters to market this style, which quickly became synonymous with youthful footwear.
A Children’s Classic
In the early 1900s, Mary Jane shoes were primarily worn by children, thanks to their practicality and secure fit. Made of sturdy leather and featuring a simple buckle, these shoes were ideal for school and play. Their association with childhood innocence and wholesomeness cemented their status as a staple for young boys and girls.
Evolving into Women’s Fashion
By the 1920s, Mary Jane shoes began transitioning from children’s footwear to a fashion item for women. This era, marked by the flapper movement and jazz age, saw Mary Janes paired with shorter hemlines, allowing the shoes’ sleek design to shine. Women wore them for dancing, as the low heel and secure strap made them perfect for energetic Charleston moves. The strap across the instep evoked subtle associations with bondage, giving the shoes a daring edge that perfectly complemented the bold, rebellious spirit of the 1920s flapper girl.
Throughout the mid-20th century, Mary Janes retained their appeal in both casual and formal contexts. Black patent leather versions became a popular choice for formal occasions, while colorful variations suited casual outfits. Both a low block heel and a french heel were popular with the Mary Jane shoes.
Our classic 1920's Mary Jane pumps, Yvonne, here styled with original clothes and accessories from the 1920s. From my historical fashion show back in May. Photo: Tami Meijburg
The T-strap
Soon a variation of the classic Mary Janes shoes was invented: The T-strap. The T-strap shoes had a single strap run vertically from the toe or vamp of the shoe up to the ankle, intersecting with a horizontal strap that encircles the foot or ankle. Together, these straps form a "T" shape when viewed from above. An example of this is our Helen evening sandals, which features decorative cut outs around the T-strap as well as a classic spanish heel.
Our 1930s T-strap evening sandals, Helen, here shown in gold and silver.
Pop Culture and Subculture Influence in the 1960s
The 1960s and 1970s witnessed Mary Jane shoes being adopted by youth subcultures. In the 1960s, the mod movement embraced bold, chunky Mary Janes with platform soles and block heels, which were often paired with miniskirts. This shift transformed the shoe into a statement piece, exuding confidence and style. They were often seen on the feet on icons like Twiggy and Mary Quant. That is also why we recommend some of our 1920s and 1930s style shoes to customers who ask for 1960s shoes, which you can read more about here: 1930s Shoes That Perfectly Complement a 1960s-Inspired Look
One of our 1920s Mary Janes shoes, Ruby, with a low block heel, here styled in a 1960s inspired outfit. From my historical fashion show in May. Photo: Tami Meijburg
Why Mary Janes Endure
The enduring appeal of Mary Jane shoes lies in their adaptability and nostalgic charm. They evoke a sense of innocence and timeless style while seamlessly adapting to contemporary trends. Whether worn as a practical children’s shoe, a flirty accessory for the dance floor, or a bold statement piece, Mary Janes have proven that simplicity and elegance never go out of style.
If you're more curious on the history of the most iconic shoes out there, you will perhaps like to read about the timeless classic - Oxford shoes. If you're looking for ways to keep your old Oxford shoes looking brand new, then you can read our guide on how to take care for your memery shoes.
Sources:
- Shoes - An Illustrated Story by Rebecca Shawcross
- Tidens Mode by Anne-Grete Steckhahn
- Vintage Fashion - Collecting and wearing designer classics by Emma Baxter-Wright, Karen Clarkson, Sarah Kennedy, and Kate Mulvey
- Vintage shoes - Caroline Cox