From silk stockings in the early 1900s to today’s warm wool tights, women’s legwear has reflected changing fashion, technology, and society. Discover how hosiery evolved and how we’ve reimagined a 1950s stocking design for modern wear.

Stockings in the 1900s: Early Hosiery Fashion and Materials

At the start of the 20th century, stockings were mostly practical, but they still carried style and elegance. Worn under long skirts, they kept legs warm, neat, and proper.

What were stockings made of in the early 1900s?

• Silk stockings – luxurious but expensive and delicate.
  

• Wool stockings – thicker, warmer, and more affordable.
  

• Cotton stockings – practical, durable, and common for everyday wear.
  

• Rayon stockings – introduced in the 1910s as “artificial silk.”
  

A pair of original Edwardian stockings in a beautiful grey color with my 1910s style oxford shoe Bertha.

Most women wore cotton or wool stockings every day, while silk stockings were considered a luxury for those who could afford them. By the end of the decade, a new invention, rayon, or “artificial silk”, provided a cheaper alternative, though it never fully matched the sheen and softness of the real thing.

Dark, neutral colors like black, brown, and beige were common, but stockings also came in red, green, and blue. Many featured decorative details such as stripes, embroidery, lace, or ankle “clocks.”

A pair of original Edwardian cotton stockings from my personal collection, with "clocks" on the ankle

Why Vintage Stockings Had Seams

In the 1900s and 1910s, stockings were knitted flat and sewn together, since circular knitting machines didn’t exist yet. The materials also made them thicker and less elastic than modern hosiery, and they had to be sew together in the shape of the leg for the best fit. 

Because they couldn’t stay up on their own, stockings were held in place with garters or suspenders attached to corsets.

A pair of original Edwardian stockings, with back seam and mended several times on the heel. From my personal collection.

1920s Hosiery: Flapper Stockings and Fashion Trends

In the 1920s, as hemlines rose, stockings became a visible part of women’s outfits rather than a hidden layer. Neutral shades were popular for creating the illusion of bare legs, while vibrant hues like blue, green, and red as well as delicate pastels, added fashionable flair. Stockings became an accessory to mix and match with different ensembles.

For everyday wear, middle- and working-class women typically chose nude-toned stockings, since their neutral color paired well with almost any dress. Brightly colored stockings, on the other hand, were less versatile and often reserved for evening or party outfits. Because of their limited use, they were viewed as a luxury item, usually affordable mostly to wealthier women.

Stocking from the 1920s in beautiful colors. From my personal collection.

With corsets fading from fashion, the girdle became the go-to garment for keeping stockings in place. Smaller garter belts also began to appear but weren’t yet widespread.

A pair of original 1920s stockings in a neutral douche color, paired with our 1920s Yvonne pumps with french heel - a classic look of the 1920s style.

1930s–1940s: Nylon Stockings and World War II Shortages

When were nylon stockings invented?

By the late 1930s, the American chemical company DuPont had invented nylon, which was quickly hailed as a “miracle fiber.” Its first big breakthrough came in 1939, when nylon stockings were introduced at the New York World’s Fair. They looked like silk but were cheaper, thinner, more durable, and easier to produce. The bright colors of the 1920s had disappeared, replaced by neutral shades like brown and beige. But nylon stockings wouldn’t stay widely available for long.

A pair of thicker, beige stockings in a nylon cotton blend with back seams from the early 1940s. From my personal collection.

Stockings during World War II

In the 1940s, nylon was redirected to military use because it was strong, lightweight, and inexpensive to produce. The entire supply went into making parachutes, ropes, tents, and even airplane parts, leaving stockings completely unavailable in stores. Women came up with creative alternatives: some drew seams on the backs of their legs with eyebrow pencil to mimic the look of stockings, while others used brown food coloring to give the appearance of darker hose. For winter, many knitted their own stockings from wool yarn for warmth. Around this time, garter belts became a more popular option for holding up stockings, replacing the girdle.

A pair of thick stockings in a light brown melange color from the late 1930s with reinforced toe and heel. From my personal collection

How women mended stockings in the 1940s

With nylon and silk rationed, women had to make do and get creative. Rips, runs, and holes were unavoidable, but tossing out a damaged pair was unthinkable. Instead, women carefully mended their stockings. Some stitched small runs with needle and thread, while others used “run stoppers” or dabbed clear nail polish to keep a tiny tear from spreading. Stores even sold small packets of fine thread in shades of brown and beige specifically for repairing stockings.

Original 1940s stockings, mended several times, along with specific mending yarn for stockings. This was a part of my small exhibition on 1940s rationing and fashion in my vintage boutique. 

1950s Stockings: Glamour, Seams, and Decorative Styles

The 1950s marked a return to luxury and traditional femininity after the hardships of the war. Stockings once again became a daily essential, gradually returning to store shelves after World War II. Women wore them with girdles or garter belts, and soon they came in a wider range of deniers and shades, much sheerer than the heavier versions of earlier decades. The trend leaned toward different tones of nude and brown that gave the illusion of natural legs. In colder months, wool stockings were the go-to for warmth, often paired with wool shorts worn under skirts.

As 1950s fashion embraced a return to more traditional silhouettes, the girdle regained popularity, serving as a modern day corset. Here, Christinna presents original 1950s underwear at my June fashion show, paired with my gold Susan evening shoes. 

In the 1950s, stockings became a true fashion statement. Decorative seams in red, blue, or green, along with embellished heels, made hosiery glamorous and playful. Symbols of femininity and elegance that still influence vintage fashion today.

Camilla is wearing a classic New Look–inspired outfit that reflects the defining style of the 1950s. Notice the sheer neutral stockings, accented with a bold black seam that serves as an accessory in its own right. This look was featured in my fashion show this past June. On her feet is my 1950s inspired pumps Julia.

1960s Pantyhose: The Invention That Changed Women’s Fashion

When were pantyhose invented?

Pantyhose appeared in the late 1950s and gained mass popularity in the 1960s. They combined stockings and garter belts into one garment, making them perfect for the new miniskirt trend.

Why pantyhose replaced stockings in the 1960s

Pantyhose made it possible for women to wear shorter skirts with ease, symbolizing a new, modern expression of femininity. Their rise coincided with the growing women’s rights movement, where fashion, reproductive choice, and personal autonomy all became intertwined markers of empowerment. More than just a garment, pantyhose reflected a broader cultural shift. One that celebrated women’s control over their own bodies and the freedom to define their own style.

In the 1960s, as skirts grew shorter, pantyhose became the perfect complement to this new fashion trend. Here Stinna is showing a true vintage 1960s dress. On her feet is my Helen shoes, originally designed as a 1930s style shoe, but works well with 1960s fashion too. 

From Neutrals to Bold Statements

In the early 1960s, sheer shades ruled the hosiery market. Nude, beige, and light brown tones were the go-to choice, designed to give legs a smooth, natural finish that paired perfectly with the decade’s rising hemlines. The introduction of the circular knitting machine brought another breakthrough: for the first time, stockings and pantyhose could be made without back seams, creating a sleeker, more modern look, that closely resembles what we know today.

As the decade unfolded and fashion grew bolder, hosiery followed suit. Women began experimenting with color and pattern, trading neutral tones for soft pastels like pink, blue, and lavender. Some designs even played with subtle stripes, polka dots, or delicate motifs. This evolution mirrored the spirit of the 1960s: Fun, expressive, and unafraid to make a statement.

Pantyhose emerged as a bold fashion statement in the 1960s. A spirit Stinna captures perfectly here in an original 1960s dress, styled with vivid red pantyhose and my Ruby shoes

1980s to Today: Modern Pantyhose, Tights, and Hosiery Options

The invention of Spandex (Lycra) in the late 1950s transformed hosiery. By the 1980s, pantyhose had more stretch, comfort, and durability than ever before.

Today, women can choose from a wide range of hosiery: sheer pantyhose, opaque tights, patterned styles, control-top, maternity, and eco-friendly designs. While pants have become everyday wear, pantyhose remain essential for formal occasions, vintage-inspired looks, and cold-weather layering.

Vintage-Inspired Wool Pantyhose: Classic Design for Modern Comfort

Our new memery pantyhose offer an instantly classic vintage look, versatile enough to complement styles from every decade and even modern fashion. Here, they are paired with our 1920s-inspired Yvonne pumps.

Inspired by original 1950s stockings, our new Memery Anita Pantyhose combines timeless vintage style with modern comfort. 

The memery pantyhose, Anita offers several unique advantages:

• 80% wool for warmth, breathability, and durability (most wool pantyhose only contain 50%).
  

• Cream-grey mélange with a beautifully structured knitted pattern.
  

• Authentic 1950s design recreated from a vintage pair.
  

• Four sizes: Small, medium, large, and X-large with generous stretch for comfort.
  

• Versatile and cozy—perfect for pairing with vintage outfits or staying warm in winter dresses.
  

• Practical modern style. Pantyhose instead of garter-belt stockings, for everyday comfort.
  

Our new pantyhose here combined with our 1940s inspired two-tone shoes, Grace.

Styled with a timeless coat and our elegant Clara oxfords, this look captures the perfect vintage-inspired charm for crisp fall days.

Whether you’re styling a 1950s swing dress or heading out on a chilly morning, these pantyhose keep you warm, stylish, and connected to over a century of hosiery history.

—Mette

Interested in learning more about womens fashion through the years? Check our our blogpost on Edwardian fashion here: 1900's Fashion | How did people dress in the Edwardian era? Or read about the history of the classic Mary Jane shoes here: Mary Jane Shoes: History, Key Features, and Why This Timeless Style Endures

 

Sources: 

• Tidens Mode by Anne-Grete Steckhahn

• Vintage Fashion: Collecting and Wearing Designer Classics by Emma Baxter-Wright, Karen Clarkson, Sarah Kennedy, and Kate Mulvey